Odysseus sailed the Mediterranean for ten years in a desperate attempt to reunite with his wife and son on mainland Greece. Homer’s literary hero wanted nothing more than to return to his peaceful life. Still, even with his family in sight, it must have been tough for him to leave Corfu.

That’s because this mythic island, Odysseus’s last stop before heading home, is perhaps the Mediterranean’s crown jewel. Its gently sloping hills are carpeted with olive trees and wildflowers; sandy beaches frame almost the entire island.

And then there’s the food. Authentic Corfiote cuisine is unique in Greece because of its myriad cultural influences, especially from the Venetians: There’s probably as much orzo on the island as there is ouzo. Corfu’s favorite dish is pastitsada, pasta with a spiced beef and tomato sauce that shows off its Italian roots.

One good place to taste pastitsada along with other Corfiote specialties is Tavern Tripa, located in the mountain village of Kinopiastes. Since 1936 Tripa has served some of the best food on the island, and it’s recognized as a culinary landmark throughout the Mediterra-nean region.

Tavern Tripa is just a short drive south of Corfu town, the island’s capital, where the past and present mingle as seamlessly as its layers of cultural heritage. Throughout the cobblestoned quarters there are Venetian and British architectural treasures side by side with modern shops. And you’re just as likely to dine in a pizzeria or a French cafe as you are in a Greek taverna.

But for all of Corfu’s cosmopolitan allure, it’s the charm of this genteel city (and of the island itself, for that matter) that will coax visitors to put off returning home – if only for a while longer.